Skip to main content

Communicating with your dog is easier when everyone is speaking the same language.

Over the past 15 years, I’ve refined the explanations that help clients understand their dogs—and get us where we want to be faster.

Here’s a list of the top 10 concepts I believe every dog owner should know.

1. Markers

  • What they are: Any sound, visual, or tactile signal that reliably predicts a reward or a consequence.
  • Examples: The word “Yes” said consistently, a hand tap for deaf dogs, or a clicker.
  • Why they matter: Clear timing tells your dog exactly which behavior earned the consequence, making learning faster and clearer.

2. Cues

  • What they are: Any signal that prompts a dog to perform a particular behavior. A cue is basically our way of asking a dog to “Do this behavior.”
  • Examples: The word “Sit,” a hand signal for “Down,” or even a knock on the door that cues your dog to bark.
  • Why they matter: Clear, consistent cues prevent confusion and speed up learning. Cues can be intentional (like a verbal command) or unintentional (like picking up the leash before a walk).

3. Reinforcement

What it is: Anything that makes a behavior more likely to happen again. Often called a “reward.”
Examples: Food, toys, play, sniffing, praise, petting, social engagement or access to another animal.

Two types:

  • Positive reinforcement: Adding something to increase a behavior (e.g., giving a treat when your dog sits to encourage sitting).

  • Negative reinforcement: Removing something to increase a behavior (e.g., releasing leash pressure when your dog moves toward you to encourage following the leash).

The science bit: If a behavior increases because of what you did immediately after it, that “something” was reinforcing.

4. Punishment

What it is: Anything that makes a behavior less likely to happen again.
The science bit: For it to count as punishment, the behavior must reliably decrease over time.
Two types:

  • Positive punishment: Adding something to decrease a behavior (e.g., a leash pop to decrease pulling).

  • Negative punishment: Removing something your dog wants to decrease a behavior (e.g., stopping play when they jump up to reduce jumping).

The science bit: Positive and negative refer to ADDING or SUBTRACTING, not “good” or “bad.”

5. Aversive

  • What it is: Anything your dog finds unpleasant and would rather avoid.
  • Examples: Bitter apple spray, a loud noise, or a social time out.
  • Why it matters: Not all aversives change future behavior. Something can be unpleasant without functioning as a punishment.

6. Arousal

  • What it is: A state of readiness — how “amped up” or calm a dog is, both mentally and physically.
  • Examples: A dog jumping and barking at a guest (high arousal) vs. lying calmly on a mat (low arousal).
  • Why it matters: Arousal affects emotional regulation, focus, self control and behavior. The right balance helps your dog learn more effectively.

7. Trigger

  • What it is: Anything in the environment that causes an intense emotional or behavioral reaction.
  • Examples: Other dogs, skateboards, loud noises, or unfamiliar people.
  • Why it matters: Identifying triggers helps you manage situations, prevent escalation, and create a plan for training.
  • The science bit: A trigger activates your dog’s emotional brain, which can override learning and focus if the reaction is strong enough. Recognizing it is the first step to shaping a better response.

8. Emotional Regulation

  • What it is: Your dog’s ability to manage and recover from strong emotions — excitement, fear, frustration, or stress.
  • Example: A dog that can settle quickly after greeting a guest has better regulation than one who takes hours to calm down.
  • Why it matters: Dogs with good emotional regulation can focus, learn, and engage appropriately even in challenging situations.
  • The science bit: Emotional regulation depends on the balance between the reactive (emotional) and rational (learning) parts of the brain. Training and practice strengthen this balance.

9. Desensitization

  • What it is: Gradually and systematically exposing your dog to a trigger at a level they can handle and recover from.
  • Example: Having your dog see another dog from a far distance where they remain calm, then slowly decreasing distance over time.
  • Why it matters: Step-by-step exposure reduces fear, frustration and reactivity without overwhelming your dog.
  • The science bit: Slow, controlled exposure prevents the stress response from flooding the brain, allowing learning and positive associations to develop.

10. Counterconditioning

  • What it is: Changing your dog’s emotional response to a trigger by pairing it with something pleasant.
  • Example: Playing a game of “find it” with scattered treats when your dog sees another dog, so the sight of a dog at a distance predicts something fun.
  • Why it matters: Counterconditioning can help your dog feel better around triggers.
  • The science bit: By repeatedly pairing a trigger with something pleasant, you can reshape neural pathways so the trigger comes to predict something good.